Meghalaya's Forgotten Third
Most Meghalaya itineraries cover Shillong, Cherrapunji, and Dawki. Fewer venture into the Jaintia Hills — the eastern district of the state, home to the Jaintia (Pnar) people, South Asia's longest cave systems, and some of the most dramatic waterfalls in Northeast India.
The Jaintia Hills are divided into two administrative districts: West Jaintia Hills (headquarters: Jowai) and East Jaintia Hills (headquarters: Khliehriat). The terrain is a mix of rolling plateaus, deep river gorges, dense forests, and coal-bearing hills. It is less polished for tourists than the Khasi Hills — and that rawness is precisely its appeal.
Jowai: The Gateway Town
Jowai is the main town of the Jaintia Hills, about 65km east of Shillong. It's a relaxed, friendly town with a few good hotels and restaurants. The town overlooks the Myntdu River gorge, and the views from the ridge are excellent.
From Jowai, most Jaintia Hills attractions are within 30–60 minutes.
Top Attractions
Krang Suri Waterfall
The jewel of the Jaintia Hills — a stunning multi-tiered waterfall with a brilliant turquoise swimming pool at its base. The colour is almost unbelievably vivid: a deep blue-green caused by dissolved minerals and the white sand riverbed. Swimming is permitted and the water is refreshingly cool. Entry involves a short but steep downhill walk (about 20 minutes). Located near Amlarem, approximately 78km from Shillong.
Krem Liat Prah Cave System
South Asia's longest cave system (31km surveyed) lies in the Jaintia Hills near Shnongrim. Serious caving expeditions are arranged through the Meghalaya Adventure Association. The cave entrance is in a scenic forested area.
Thadlaskein Lake
A naturally occurring lake near Jowai, said to have been created when a great Jaintia warrior struck the earth with his spear. The lake is serene and scenic, particularly beautiful at dawn when mist lies over the water. A sacred site for the local Jaintia community.
Nartiang Monoliths
Near Jowai, the village of Nartiang contains the largest collection of monoliths (menhirs and dolmens) in Meghalaya — over 30 standing stones of varying sizes, some nearly 8 metres tall. These were erected by Jaintia chiefs to commemorate victories and ancestors. The site is also home to an ancient Durga temple.
Syntu Ksiar
A panoramic viewpoint overlooking a dramatic river bend in the Myntdu Valley. The meandering river far below, surrounded by dense forest, makes for breathtaking photography. Best in the morning when mist fills the valley.
Wahkhen Village
A remote village accessible by road, known for its community-run homestays and the nearby Wahkhen waterfall. Offers a genuine rural Jaintia experience.
Behdienkhlam Festival
The Jaintia Hills' most important festival, Behdienkhlam is celebrated in July (the month of Harkat in the Jaintia calendar) to drive away plague and evil spirits and pray for good harvest. The festival involves:
It is one of the most visually spectacular festivals in Meghalaya and draws visitors from across the region.
Coal Mines & Controversy
The Jaintia Hills were historically the center of Meghalaya's coal mining industry — the hills contain significant lignite deposits. Rat-hole coal mining (a practice where miners dig narrow tunnels into hillsides) was banned by the National Green Tribunal in 2014, but illegal mining continues in some areas. The environmental impact — acid mine drainage, polluted rivers — is visible in parts of East Jaintia Hills. It's a sobering contrast to the region's natural beauty.
Getting Around the Jaintia Hills
The roads in the Jaintia Hills are generally in fair condition on main routes (NH6) but deteriorate on smaller roads. A sturdy vehicle with a knowledgeable driver is essential for reaching attractions like Krang Suri and Nartiang. Allow at least 2 days to see the major sites properly.
Tips
Discover the Jaintia Hills with an experienced local driver. Meghalaya Cabs runs dedicated Jaintia Hills packages from Shillong covering Krang Suri, Thadlaskein, Nartiang, and Syntu Ksiar. WhatsApp us to customize your itinerary.
